Lemon Care
Firstly, I would like to clarify that the types of lemons differ, and their fruiting and flowering times vary from one region to another depending on temperatures and weather conditions. The information I will write pertains to the hot Gulf region such as Oman, UAE, Qatar, Bahrain, Kuwait, and areas in Saudi Arabia that are not affected by frost.
Therefore, what I will mention should be considered according to the Gregorian months and evaluated based on the condition of the plant and its growth stage, then applied accordingly.
Lemon seeds can be sown throughout the year, but the best season for sowing lemon seeds is autumn from September to November. It is preferable to sow lemon seeds in light, well-draining soil, such as potting soil or ground coco peat mixed with a little perlite and worm compost or plant compost.
Seedlings should be continuously fed with nutrients in small doses at spaced intervals (like fish emulsion), especially nitrogen for vegetative growth and phosphorus for root growth, in addition to iron when needed.
In the growth stage, the seedling should be trained on a single stem, and pruned every six months by cutting off the drooping and dry branches and suckers to form a strong trunk.
After two years, the seedling will be ready for planting in its permanent location, and the best time to plant lemons is in October when the intense heat subsides. The land should be prepared a month or more before planting by digging a circular hole with a diameter of 1 meter and a depth of 70-80 cm, removing all obstacles such as stones and construction debris, then backfilling the hole with fine, well-draining sand mixed with treated cow manure (essential) and adding a kilogram of agricultural gypsum. It is preferable to add a 4-6-4 organic compound fertilizer to enhance root and vegetative growth, then soak the hole with water by flooding every 2 to 3 days.
After a full month of soaking, the organic materials in the fertilizer will decompose and salts will dissolve from the soil. Beneficial bacteria (EM1) can be used to speed up the decomposition process.
After a month from planting the seedling in the previously prepared hole, I emphasize the necessity of digging a hole slightly larger than the seedling pot, placing a layer of coco peat or peat moss 4-5 cm thick at the bottom of the hole and along the sides. This is to protect the plant roots from coming into contact with the soil, which may contain high salt levels that could cause transplant shock, leading to the seedling drying out or even dying.
After transplanting the seedling to the ground, it is preferable to place a barrier around it to protect it from wind and dust. This barrier should be away from the plant and not touching it, and should be expanded as the seedling grows and removed after a year.
Immediately after planting, fertilize the seedling with seaweed extract as a soil drench, or spray the seedlings with amino acids foliarly before planting to strengthen the seedling and help it withstand difficult conditions after planting.
In the first three years after planting, organic fertilization (cow manure) should be done every winter, and seedlings should be watered with humic acid once a month. During this sensitive stage, special attention should be given to iron deficiency, as the plant needs it in large quantities, and foliar sprays with micronutrients should be done when necessary.
Continue feeding lemons with fish emulsion every week or two throughout the year, reducing the dosage by half in the summer.
In the first three years, only prune the plant to shape it by continuously removing suckers, pruning dry branches, and training the tree to grow on a single trunk that branches out at a height of 60-80 cm.
In the fourth and fifth years, serious work with the lemon tree begins as it starts to mature and bear fruit. It is natural for the lemon tree to produce light fruit in its first season, then increase in the following season, and so on, until it reaches peak production in the years from 8-20 with good care.
We have entered the fourth and fifth years:
- November: Gradually reduce watering from the beginning of November until entering December or mid-December, when winter begins and the tree enters its winter dormancy stage. During this period, the plant's leaves will start to yellow and then gradually fall off until 50% of the leaves have fallen.
- December: Fertilize the lemon tree with heat-treated cow manure at a rate of one bag (25 kg), mix it with the soil surface to a depth of 5-10 cm to preserve the plant's shallow roots, then water the plant thoroughly once. Optionally, spray the plant with seaweed extract or amino acids to strengthen the tree and help it withstand difficult conditions.
- January: Watering reduction reaches its peak in this month, as the lemon tree begins to bloom, either at the beginning or the end of the month, depending on the region. Feed the plant with phosphorus to stimulate the production of as many flowers as possible. When the first signs of blooming appear, spray the lemon tree foliarly with calcium and boron every 10 days to stabilize the flowers and increase fruit set, and maintain light, regular watering. Strict adherence to watering during this period is very crucial.
- February: Continue light watering and feeding with fish emulsion once a week. After 80% of the flowers have set, you can spray an organic insecticide (such as Pyco 1) with neem oil to prevent tunnel borers, spiders, and other insect pests.
- March: The fruits have set and started to grow, so stop fertilizing with nitrogen and phosphorus and start fertilizing with potassium every 14 days to develop large-sized fruits. Spray with micronutrients twice, 14 days apart, and a third time if deficiency symptoms appear. Gradually increase watering at the beginning of this month until April as we enter early summer. Spray with seaweed extract or amino acids.
- April: Maintain regular watering and increase it according to the plant's needs, temperature, and soil type (keep the soil moisture from drying out). Spray calcium foliarly twice, 14 days apart, to nourish the plant before deficiency symptoms appear, such as fruit cracking and branch tip burn. Spray Pyco 1 with neem oil to combat pests like thrips, spider mites, and tunnel borers. Mulch the plant basins with straw, mulch, or tree leaves to retain soil moisture and protect the plant from drying out.
- May-June: Maintain regular watering, watering twice a day in the morning and evening, and continue feeding with fish emulsion and potassium every 14 days. Spray calcium if deficiency symptoms appear, and foliar spray potassium twice, 14 days apart. In June, spray with seaweed extract or amino acids.
- July-August-September: Stop potassium fertilization at the beginning of July as the fruit harvesting season begins, and continue regular watering in the morning and evening to maintain fruit quality and prevent cracking.
- October: After harvesting the fruits, the plant goes through a rest period, so maintain watering as it is until entering November and starting the cycle again. Optionally, spray with seaweed extract or amino acids.
Thus, the season ends, and we start preparing for the next season.
Sixth Year
- Start reducing water in November, prune the plant lightly as in previous years, and apply the same procedures each month, as previously mentioned.
- Monitor iron deficiency carefully and spray it in early November with ferrous sulfate or chelated iron. Foliar spray the plant with micronutrients, especially during leaf development in spring and the start of autumn. To enhance vegetative growth, prune the plant again to improve light and air penetration inside the plant, which aids in nutrient absorption.
- Prepare the plant for heavy production from the seventh year by maintaining regular feeding, watering, and pruning according to the guidelines mentioned above.
